The dying city: Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio is located in the area between Lake Bolsena to the west and the Tiber Valley to the east, in the municipality of Bagnoregio. It is made up of two main valleys: the Fossato del Rio Torbido and the Fossato del Rio Chiaro. It dates back 2500 years and stands on one of the oldest roads in Italy, connecting the Tiber (a major waterway in Central Italy) and Lake Bolsena. It originally had five gates, but today the Porta di Santa Maria or della Cava represents the main entrance. Many Etruscan remains still exist, including the impressive “Bucaione,” a deep tunnel that cuts through the lower part of the city and leads to the Valley of Calanchi.

When arriving from the parking areas in Civita, one can admire the city’s beauty from a viewpoint and take some wonderful photos of the small town nestled in a very suggestive and exciting valley. After passing the viewpoint, a not-too-long walk (about 15 minutes) to the village of Bagnoregio begins by descending a staircase carved into the rock and then passing through a pedestrian bridge (which can be accessed with a ticket costing €5 available at the adjacent ticket office).

As you walk along the long pedestrian bridge, the beauty of this city, which is called “The Dying City” due to landslides, becomes increasingly apparent. For those not used to walking in hilly and/or mountainous areas, I highly recommend proceeding slowly and not too quickly to avoid having to stop at the beginning or halfway up the climb due to the steep incline. Furthermore, if you decide to visit the village during the summer season, a hat is strongly recommended to protect yourself from the sun, as the bridge is entirely in the sun, and there are no shaded areas until you reach the city where you can finally find some shade and natural ventilation.

The city itself, once you arrive at the main entrance, is not only a charming village to visit but also a place where you can sit and rest and take beautiful photos of the valley below.

The village is not very large, but it is well-maintained by the shopkeepers and restaurateurs who have their businesses there. As you walk, you can find many typical and cute little restaurants on every corner, as well as souvenir shops, postcards, and essences.

If you arrive in the late morning, before enjoying a good lunch in one of these bistros, you could explore the numerous interesting streets and corners that this place offers, such as various observation points/terraces, hidden gardens, or a small museum carved into the rock that shows daily life in ancient times (also known as the “House of Pinocchio”). On the way back, you can also visit the church of San Donato, which overlooks the main square.

Regarding dining, the wide variety of restaurants present allows you to choose which menu to try. For example, there are restaurants that offer traditional dishes, while others give you the opportunity to taste numerous types of pasta with just as many condiments, all while admiring balconies in full bloom or the natural views that the village offers. Enjoy a delicious lunch and immerse yourself in the flavors of this land, which is presented excellently by the restaurateurs.

Church of San Donato

The Church of San Donato is believed to date back to the 5th century according to tradition.

As an ancient cathedral from the 600s, it retains traces of Romanesque style. Later, the facade was modified and assumed a Renaissance appearance. It was then enriched with the central portal in 1524 and the two lateral ones in 1547. Inside, there are preserved a fresco from the Perugino school and a 15th-century wooden crucifix from the Donatello school. It appears as a simple Romanesque church but is very beautiful to photograph and to take a moment of contemplation.

Landslide Museum

Room 1 – LANDSLIDES

Civita di Bagnoregio and the living landscape of the Valle dei Calanchi. Ongoing geomorphological processes and landslides:

Civita di Bagnoregio and the surrounding area known as the “Valle dei Calanchi” represent an area of extraordinarily significant landscape interest to be enhanced and safeguarded, with characteristics that make it almost unique at national and international levels.

The evolution of the territory is particularly evident along the morphological saddle leading to Civita, which has lowered by about 40 meters since 1764.

Room 2 – FOSSILS

The geological history and marine fossils of the area between Bagnoregio and the Tiber Valley. The Bagnoregio territory is characterized by Lower Pleistocene marine sandstone clays covered by volcanic deposits of the Vulsino Volcanic District.

Room 3 – HISTORY

To date, 134 landslides have been documented in manuscripts, chronicles, documents, and various publications, showing a reduction in the inhabited center due to landslides.

San Bonaventura is the most illustrious character of the city and made the name of Civita famous throughout Europe. A religious figure, philosopher, and theologian, he was a bishop, cardinal, and minister general of the Franciscan Order and is considered one of the most important biographers of Saint Francis of Assisi.

Room 4 – CIVITA

Monitoring landslide phenomena represents the starting point for the implementation of programs for the prevention and mitigation of risks related to slope instability.

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